L.L. Bean Chamois
- Eric Langlois
- Jan 31
- 3 min read
I’m currently packing for a ski trip. I’ve got my sunglasses, my parka, the balaclava that my wife knitted for me to keep my head and neck warm. Snow pants, of course - I’ve skied in jeans and I don’t recommend it, even with long johns underneath. With projected high temperatures around 18 degrees, layering is vital, so I’ll be wearing a sweater under my parka, and as an intermediate layer I’ll have my L.L. Bean Chamois shirt.
This shirt, originally called the Leatherette shirt before being renamed to the Chamois shirt in the early 1930s, was given those names because its velvety texture was similar to that of chamois leather, a form of high-quality split hide made from goat or sheepskin. Created in 1927 by the company’s founder Leon Leonwood Bean (what a name), the “Leatherette Shirt” was designed as an alternative to wool work shirts of the era. Wool has fantastic temperature regulating properties, wicking moisture away from the body while keeping the wearer warm, even if the wool itself has become soaked. However, especially for someone working hard in the outdoors, the laundering requirements of wool can be a problem. While wool requires gentle, low temperature washing and hang drying, cotton can take just about any abuse in the washer and dryer and come out none the worse for wear. Bean decided to make his shirt out of a heavyweight cotton flannel, brushed to create a soft, velvety texture which would increase its insulating properties.
Heavier than a standard flannel shirt, the chamois material weighs in at a chunky 7.5 ounces. The thick material is important, both for insulation and for wear resistance as cotton bounces back from most abrasions, and the napped texture seems to soften over time rather than wearing down. The shirt’s construction is simple and rugged, featuring double-stitched lapped seams and shirttail hems to allow you to tuck in your shirt easily. The buttons are advertised as “unbreakable,” and while I’m sure they don’t last forever, I haven’t had any of them snap on me yet. Perhaps most important - at least for brand visibility - are the slightly angled pocket flaps, a distinctive detail that was added in the 1930s, early in the design’s life.
The Chamois shirt was designed to be worn tucked in, keeping cold winter drafts away from the body. The added length of the shirttail hem helps with this, but depending on your height it might not be so ideal if you want to wear your shirt untucked. Ultimately it depends on what you’re comfortable with. I will often leave mine untucked when I’m puttering around the house. Like most workwear today, a chamois shirt is a versatile piece that can be worn with a variety of relaxed clothing. Pair it with jeans and work boots, or corduroy trousers and loafers and it will be equally at home. I keep mine on the back of the sofa in my study much of the year, ready to pull on as a sweater or sweatshirt alternative if the temperature dips.
As with corduroy, there is a lush feel to chamois flannel that calls to mind idyllic fall and winter days. Coupled with the classic American styling and the history of the design, it’s not hard to see why similar shirts can be seen on actors like Rock Hudson and Dennis Haysbert in films set in the mid-20th century, playing into the idealized image of the period.
As usual, I suggest buying vintage. While L.L. Bean still produces the Chamois shirt in 100% cotton flannel, there are plenty of vintage US-made pieces available from secondhand sellers. The same ruggedness that was intended to keep the wearer warm while felling trees and hunting deer has allowed many of these shirts to outlive their original owners. Chamois shirts look their best when they’ve been well-loved, and picking up a faded one from the 70s or 80s will allow you to tap into the rugged look that the style embodies.
Eric Langlois is a writer, menswear professional, and history enthusiast based on the North Shore of Massachusetts.
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