By Z.G. Burnett
After packing my wares for the recent New York City edition of The Sturbridge Show, the only intensity level that my boiled egg of a brain could only handle was Mothra vs. Godzilla (1964). Everyone has their weird thing that helps them relax, one of mine is “big monster smash building.” An added bonus of this era’s Godzilla movies is the outfits resulting from the postwar mix of Western styles and traditional Japanese clothing. The female lead and singing twin fairies that accompany Mothra were strong contenders for Best Dressed, but it was the fishermen who claimed ownership of Mothra’s egg that took the prize.
Whether it’s rizz, whether it’s swag, these guys have it. The combination of a wool felt fedora and overcoat with a warm hanten over a casual haori jacket, a military henley with hachimaki headband, a sukajan jacket that seems to be made from embroidered silk? No one’s messing with this gang except for the greedy businessmen who get theirs in the end, if you’ll excuse the sixty-year-old spoiler.
My fondness for Japanese clothing goes back to when I put on my first gi for karate class at age 8. Yes, I was that kind of 90s kid, and continued with the practice for ten more years. Although not the most flattering silhouette for a young lady, it was functional and I loved how the heavy cotton wore in with use. Since then I’ve only attempted a breezy summer yukata, and I’ll pay the extra price for cotton clothing of Japanese make when I can. Jackman Terabi Meriyasu is a particular favorite.
It seemed right, then, for me to meet Jason of Second Son Vintage at Sturbridge the next day. Jason sells an almost unbelievable selection of new old stock denim that occupied half his booth, but he also brought a collection of antique and vintage Japanese clothing and textiles. The showpiece was an early 20th century fireman’s uniform but, possibly by habit, I was drawn to the vintage “kendogi” or kendo jackets. Needless to say, I didn’t leave without one by market’s end.
Despite my squeamishness about cultural appropriation, I was assured by friends with Asian heritage that I was doing no harm. It’s a good thing too, because I’ve barely removed my kendogi since then. In the transitional period between winter and spring, the thick textured cotton makes a perfect layer under my Barbour jacket, and is warm enough in my apartment until the heat kicks on.
Kendogi are available in a range of fabrics, colors, and ages, and many can be found with either patchwork or ornamental sashiko stitching. The latter are usually more expensive, due to the care and time that’s been taken to repair them. Each adds a distinct flavor to an outfit, either as a neutral base or a showpiece. If you’re looking for an alternative to the cotton rollneck or cardigan this spring, give the kendogi a try.
Z. G. Burnett
Z.G. Burnett is a New England-based writer who specializes in history, fashion, and material culture. She is a contributing editor for Antiques and the Arts Weekly, and her work has appeared in Ivy Style and The Vintage Woman Magazine. Burnett is currently editing her first book,The Preppy Witch Primer. Find more at www.zgburnett.com.
Image credit: Annie Minicuci Photography.
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