James McLaughlin [00:00:00]: You know, we live in such a world right now, the fast fashion. And if you really look into that and how it affects kind of, you know, global environmental things, I mean, the the production rate of stuff is just so high, and the standards for, workers and factories are very low. And so it's just as somebody that kinda thinks a lot about all the stuff that I'm doing and everything going on in the world, it's just if I'm gonna press forward and really have a constant supplier, I want to know where it's coming from and feel good about it and feel good about what I'm what I'm giving to people. You know what I mean? Reginald Ferguson [00:00:45]: I'm Rich Ferguson, and I'm a fashion consultant from New York City, born and raised. I've been helping men look fly for years. And now, I wanna help you learn more about menswear, the entrepreneurs, the brands, and top fashion tips on The Fashion Geek Podcast. I've loved bags since I was a kid. I love them because you can put stuff in them. That age I often get carried away and attempt to put my life's possessions in. I've had so many bags in my life in different types. Backpacks, messenger bags, duffle bags, tennis bags, tote bags. Reginald Ferguson [00:01:30]: Should have seen me in high school. It was hard for a bag to make it through a marking period. Handles and shoulder straps could not make it through the stress through scholarship that I was bringing. For me, bags are not only utilitarian, but they are fashion accessories as well. Who in the game is making bags that are worthy of our attention? Yo. This is Reg Ferguson, fashion geek number 1. How are you? Welcome to the ride. Thank you so much for listening. Reginald Ferguson [00:02:07]: I'm a men's fashion consultant here in New York City, and I help fashion challenged men go from confused to confident. Consider me a personal trainer for fashion. If you ever found yourself staring at the closet not knowing what to wear or the idea of shopping for clothes makes you feel physically ill, then this is the show for you. My goal with every episode is to help you learn about the people behind the brands and to help make looking good feel easy. If you ever want my help, email me at reg@nyfashiongeek.com for a consultation. If you have a friend who's looking to level up his fashion style wardrobe game, please share an episode with them. While you're at it, if you dig the show and haven't already left us a rating or review, please consider doing so now. Your shares, ratings, and reviews help us grow the show and help us get the best possible guest and help more men dress their best. Reginald Ferguson [00:03:09]: Today, we're gonna talk with James McLaughlin of 33 by Hand, who's in Fort Portland, Maine. Portland, Maine. And he and I are gonna talk about something the everyday man should be interested in. We're gonna talk about men's accessories. James in the building. James McLaughlin [00:03:29]: Hey. What's up, man? How are you? Reginald Ferguson [00:03:31]: I'm well, man. How are you? James McLaughlin [00:03:32]: Doing great. Thanks. Reginald Ferguson [00:03:34]: Keeping safe out there in Portland? James McLaughlin [00:03:36]: Yeah. You know, we got a sunny day. It has been real cold up here, but, you know, it's nice. Reginald Ferguson [00:03:42]: Cold is, Maine's middle name in the winter. For real. But you're used to it because you're from there. James McLaughlin [00:03:49]: I am. So before we Reginald Ferguson [00:03:51]: go into our topic, please tell us. So, what do you do? So what do you what do you do? James McLaughlin [00:04:13]: So, I have a brand up here called 33 by Hand. I make primarily leather goods, wallets, bags, some other small accessories. But I also have been doing, some canvas goods. I do what I like to call coated canvas. It's heavy duty, really thick canvas, that I coat with a latex premium latex paint, exterior paint, which makes it really waterproof, really durable, and great for bags. And I've also been just recently doing some merch, some, sweatshirts and sweatpants, and I am looking to expand that right now. So Reginald Ferguson [00:05:04]: little bit of You hit me with the exclusive. I did not know that you were getting into gear. James McLaughlin [00:05:10]: Yeah. I had some at the show in New York where, where I met you, but I've that was kind of some almost sample quality stuff. So I've just recently found a really nice vendor for some super high quality, really nice thicker sweats, and I've just been experimenting with that, sending off my first round to the embroidery spot this week, actually. Reginald Ferguson [00:05:39]: Oh, wow. Is the embroidery spot local? James McLaughlin [00:05:42]: It is. Yep. Reginald Ferguson [00:05:43]: Okay. James McLaughlin [00:05:44]: Yeah. So Reginald Ferguson [00:05:45]: I gotta tell you. James McLaughlin [00:05:46]: They're called No. Reginald Ferguson [00:05:46]: I'm sorry. Continue. Continue. James McLaughlin [00:05:48]: They're called Loquat. They're also a really cool brand here in Portland as well. Reginald Ferguson [00:05:53]: Okay. Run that name by me again. James McLaughlin [00:05:55]: It's Loquat, l o q u a t. Reginald Ferguson [00:05:58]: Okay. Yeah. It looks like man, that's a crazy pronunciation. James McLaughlin [00:06:01]: Yeah. They're cool. Reginald Ferguson [00:06:04]: So, let's just get right into that because I don't recall so for the listeners, James and I met at a show in Greenpoint, Brooklyn called AF, American Field, and it was the first time they presented that show since the start of COVID. Yep. And I was telling James I had gone to the last show. And then when I saw that it was coming around again, I wanted to I wanted to support. But unfortunately, from a vendor standpoint and even me as a patron, that was the start of Omicron. James McLaughlin [00:06:47]: It was the very beginning. Reginald Ferguson [00:06:50]: Yep. So it was crickets at the Brooklyn Expo Center. They're throwing a bowling ball down the lanes. James McLaughlin [00:07:02]: Yeah. It was unfortunate. That was my first New York show, and I was pretty hyped for it. But, it was still good. I mean, it was still a good turnout. I can't remember if you were there the 1st day or the 2nd day. Reginald Ferguson [00:07:14]: I was there Saturday. James McLaughlin [00:07:17]: Okay. Okay. Cool. The second day so on Sunday, it seemed like kind of the local kind of the hood came out on on Sunday, which is Oh, okay. Yeah. Reginald Ferguson [00:07:28]: Well, it's a great neighborhood in It really is. Yeah. It's just if you get love in that neighborhood, that really would, you know, would help you and every vendor. Yeah. It was great. Saturday. James McLaughlin [00:07:39]: Yeah. The second day was Reginald Ferguson [00:07:41]: great. Oh, okay. That's good. I'm sorry that I was part of the bad day. James McLaughlin [00:07:45]: You know, I mean well, to be honest, it was just it was it was kind of the numbers weren't weren't a lot different. It was just more kind of the people that were there. Saturday seemed to be kind of people from either other boroughs or out of town or something. But Sunday really felt like local people, you know, Greenpoint people, Brooklyn people that were kinda really they knew what they were getting into and they knew what they liked and they were kinda ready to find some cool stuff. So, you know, overall overall, considering that Omicron had just hit that weekend, it was a good turnout. Reginald Ferguson [00:08:24]: Okay. Well, I'm glad that you felt good about it because I came in, and I wanted to apologize to every vendor. Like, the last time, this was so packed. I'm sorry that it's not. I'm here. I'm sorry. James McLaughlin [00:08:43]: I had the advantage of that was my first time doing it in Brooklyn. So to me, it was it was a good time either. Right? Reginald Ferguson [00:08:51]: Well, I'm glad. So, you know, we try to we try to show love. It's a Brooklyn way. James McLaughlin [00:08:57]: Absolutely. Reginald Ferguson [00:08:59]: So I don't recall seeing the sweats at all. James McLaughlin [00:09:04]: Okay. So, yeah. So my setup these days has been I like to set it up and kind of make you feel like you're walking into an actual store, which helps kinda set me apart, at that kind of show as well because most people are kind of it's like a trade show booth or, like, a table that they're standing behind or something. So, I like to set up kind of a larger area. I bring my own music, all that kind of stuff. So, basically, what I have is on one side, if you're if you're looking at the booth, in Brooklyn, I had on the right all my leather goods on the table, wallets, the, travel kits, everything like that, bags kind of in the back. And then on the left, I had a rack with some sweats, some jeans, some t shirts, and some hats. So that's kind of, like, what started as merch. James McLaughlin [00:09:58]: However, this past holiday season, the sweat suits and, most of the sweat suits, but the jeans as well, were just selling, basically in competition and sometimes beating out the leather goods. So I've really which is exciting to me because I do love apparel. You know, if, apparel wasn't as complicated, I'd probably do more of that. But, you know, just kinda easing into it. But I found a really great, manufacturer, wholesale manufacturer of some really nice sweats that are they're, like, GOTS certified, which is like a it's a kind of a global cotton certification for, like, sustainability. So they're super nice. I'm I'm excited about them. Reginald Ferguson [00:10:48]: So what makes a GLTS certification specifically? So What does it even stand for? James McLaughlin [00:10:56]: It is the, let's see what it is. It's the global organic textile standard. And it's they're made it's about how they're made and distributed. So, you know, they they really vet all of their all their farms, all their mills, and all their distributors, And so you have to kind of apply for the certification, and then you're part of it, and then you can put your that label on your goods. And so the company I've been using is called Original Favorites, and I believe they're based out of Colorado. Okay. Reginald Ferguson [00:11:41]: What led you to seek a supplier that had that certification? James McLaughlin [00:11:49]: You know, just getting into apparel, there's a lot and I'm I'm not producing my own yet. So, you know, I'm still a long ways from, you know, kind of companies that are making their own stuff. But, you know, we live in such a world right now with fast fashion. And if you really look into that and how it affects kind of, you know, global environmental things, I mean, the the production rate of stuff is just so high. And the standards for, workers and factories are very low. And so it's just as somebody that kinda thinks a lot about all the stuff that I'm doing and everything going on in the world, it's just if I'm gonna press forward and really have a constant supplier, I want to know where it's coming from and feel good about it and feel good about what I'm what I'm giving to people. You know what I mean? I do leather, of course, which is the byproducts of leather are not always the best, but I do I source all of my leather through a tannery, which is in Central Maine, right near where I grew up, called, well, the the larger company is called Tasman, and they are a global company. I believe they may have, consolidated to just here in the US. James McLaughlin [00:13:17]: But so they have a branch tannery up in Central Maine near I where I grew up. The tannery's in Heartland. I grew up in Skowhegan, Maine. And they you know, when when I first started going there around 2013, you just go right up rock up to the factory, meet this guy who kinda ran the off sale side of it, and he'd take us down to this massive warehouse space, like, almost football field size with just, you know, what they're called they call horses. So it's like a big rolling kind of rack thing with 100 and 100 and 100 of sides of leather, which is, like, half of a hide. So and he'd be like, go pick out what you want. It's $40 a side, which is insane. And this is, like, you know, the highest quality stuff. James McLaughlin [00:14:11]: I mean, they're making stuff for New Balance and Coach and the US military and all kinds of different companies. So we just go pick out what we wanted and kinda ring it up and be like, man, I wish I had, like, you know, a $100,000 to drop here and just sit on this and sell it off or whatever because you could certainly make a profit on at that price. But, anyway, time has gone by now. They have now monetized that entire room of their off sale. So what all those hides are are from larger runs, and then they're kind of the surplus or, like, the They have now monetized that, essentially, that room into its own business called Acadia Leather. And you can find them online at acati leather.com. They're on Instagram as well. And they have become a bit of a national supplier for small leather goods makers, and they've kind of marketed themselves to that to that market. James McLaughlin [00:15:26]: And so, you know, the sides don't cost $40 anymore. They cost about, you know, 80 for a super low grade to, like, a 120 and up. But, again, that is still quite a deal, when you're looking at premium leather. So, anyway, long story long, I guess, here. Yeah. It's a good story. It's interesting. It is nice to know that I the leather I'm using is the the production has already happened on that leather. James McLaughlin [00:16:00]: So when I buy a piece of leather, I'm not contributing to more wastewater and chemicals and, you know, those kind of harmful byproducts of leather tanning production. Additionally, I'm kind of buying what's already been done, and I'm kind of, you know you can look at it as kind of helping to use up this stuff that is just sitting, which has already been processed. So it's a small way to, I feel, like, contribute a little bit to a kind of a upcycling trend versus more production, more production, more production. So that, you know, that plays into everything that I try to do. And so, you know, leading to that, when I'm starting to look at apparel, it's something that I'm trying to look at. Reginald Ferguson [00:16:57]: So you had mentioned with the apparel, and, eventually, in this conversation, I want to get back to you in terms of the leather and the tanning because I find that interesting. For me as a consumer, obviously, the adage to me, to an extent, is you get what you pay for. Mhmm. But what are you looking for as a designer, as a person with a brand when you're trying to determine and ultimately selecting this one manufacturer, quality of cotton goods pertaining to sweats? James McLaughlin [00:17:35]: Yeah. So, I mean, I guess it's funny. So we've, you know, we've kinda jumped right into the apparel which Yeah. Which honestly is kind of a side thing to what 33 by hand really is. And it started as just a merch thing, but now it's just they've been selling so well. And I'm just personally so excited about a good sweatsuit myself anyway. So, but to you know, it comes from to get really into what 33 by Hand more stands for, typically, I do make leather goods and I make canvas goods. And I grew up in Maine as I said, but so I grew up, you know, with these, you know, heritage brands like L. James McLaughlin [00:18:21]: L. Bean and Sebago and, you know, lots of, like, Hathaway shirts, these, like, kind of worldwide known brands from Maine that are known for this durable, rugged, but style a little bit. You know, LVNV's come a long way with their style. It's not like they're kind of setting the trends as far as style goes. However, it's, you know, it's that rugged durability that Maine is known for. I then took off from Maine right after graduating high school and at first vowed to never move back here again. And I went to Boston, and as you know from from kind of the background I sent you, went to school for audio production, worked in recording studios for a while. Then I went to Colorado for a while to just kind of ski and snowboard and kind of be in the snow for a while. James McLaughlin [00:19:22]: Then to Vancouver to finish my audio production studies, more studios, and then to LA for a good six and a half years. So I've spent a lot of time, you know, in bigger cities in the music world. I'm also a DJ, so, you know, and I also played basketball growing up. That was a huge part of my life. So my style is more of a urban kinda street hip hop vibe, and but where I grew up is this, you know, Maine kinda outdoor vibe. My parents were super in the outdoors. We did a lot of camping, a lot of hiking, a lot of just time in the outdoors. They had also lived in New York and Boston before me and my brother were born, so we did spend a lot of time going to the bigger cities. James McLaughlin [00:20:09]: So I grew up with this kind of mix of both of those things. And that's essentially where my brand lives is this mix of that rugged outdoor durability and that kind of street contemporary style. So that's where, you know, the inspiration for my leather goods and the style, of them that I produce comes from. So getting, you know, from that, when I was starting to okay. I'm about to do some kind of what started as, again, merch, just some kinda promotional stuff to have on the side. You know, I'm looking at I want something that's stylish. I want something that's high quality. I want something that will stand out. James McLaughlin [00:20:59]: And at the beginning, I was just using some, you know, straight up Gildan, you know, and just, kind of experimenting. But, what I was what I started doing was kind of doing this bleach kind of tie dye. And with the Gildan, it's it's a blend, so it's like a cotton synthetic blend. And with the bleach on that material, it gives this kind of gray look. So I was doing black shirts and pants with the bleach, and it it gives this gray on black tie dye look, which is really cool. It's pretty unique. And so when I first started experimenting it with it, I'm like, this look goes with my look. But as I said now, that was kind of just sample quality stuff, and to just have on the side. James McLaughlin [00:21:47]: But with it taking off like it did, I'm like, alright. Now I wanna look for something a little higher quality, a little more unique, and that kind of you know, that feeling of, you know, old school champion reverse weave, you know, that's just so thick, and it's got gusset gussets on the side. And, you know, you put it on, and it just, like, you know, you just feel like you just feel that quality, and you feel the thickness, and it just it's kinda like retro throwback. And so, original favorites, that's kind of what they put out. So, when I first got the first samples, I was like, yeah, man. This is really it. So so yeah. I mean, I had to, you know, to to talk about the what I look for in apparel, it's hard to jump right to that because that is kind of a side thing. James McLaughlin [00:22:41]: So I I had to give you kind of a background there. Reginald Ferguson [00:22:43]: No. No. No. I appreciate it. And I now, I almost feel bad. So let's let's get into James McLaughlin [00:22:48]: what you really do. Yeah. Reginald Ferguson [00:22:53]: So but not to be a wise guy, what drew me to you in terms of your setup at American Field were those Nikes. James McLaughlin [00:23:05]: Oh, yeah. Reginald Ferguson [00:23:07]: Yeah, man. Let's talk about that just a little, and then we're gonna go deep into leather and Dopp kits and all these James McLaughlin [00:23:13]: Yeah. Well, I mean, I am a super sneaker footwear obsessed person. I mean, I guess the term that they got now these days is sneaker head, which, you know Sneaker head. You know you know. But, you know, I was kinda into that world before people decided they were sneakerheads and all this craziness that's going on these days. But, you know, I mean, I respect it. People are into it. It's cool to see it come this far. James McLaughlin [00:23:44]: I mean, I grew up in the time of Jordan, so I was a MJ fan since the beginning. My dad was a Celtics fan, but I just could not get down with the Celtics. And, you know, Michael Jordan was out here doing his thing. And so when I was in kindergarten, the Jordan 1 came out. And somehow, we had I also grew up in Scott Hegan. There's a New Balance factory. So, typically, we had to get New Balance because that was, like, that was the cheapest. You know, my parents were not springing for the Nikes. James McLaughlin [00:24:13]: But for some reason, I don't know, when I was in kindergarten, my mom or dad, somebody was, like, one of them decided that it was okay for me. It was on they were on sale or something because I got the I got the Jordan 1 when I was in kindergarten, the original Chicago Jordan 1. What? I still actually have the pair. I I mean, I guess it must have been because, I mean, I haven't read about it since then and, like, at some points, those those sneakers were on sale because people, like, at the very beginning because they were just a little out there. You know what I mean? Reginald Ferguson [00:24:50]: Yep. James McLaughlin [00:24:51]: And if they had some pairs in Scott Hegan, Maine in kids sizes, My guess is those were not flying off the shelf, and they were just kinda sitting. So I don't know. I I don't know if I if they got them on sale or what, but, you know, I had those in kindergarten. That was kinda it. I was I was hooked on sneakers. And, you know, I remember having, like, LA gears and Reebok pumps and Yeah. Having some new balance of being like, man, these are not it, which is funny because I just recently got those, the 5 fifties, the ALD, Aime Leon Dore 5 fifties. And I'm like, man, I had these as a kid, and I did not like them. James McLaughlin [00:25:30]: And now I got this, like, green off white pair. I'm like, these are super fresh. So it's funny how it comes around. But, you know, I've just been obsessed with sneakers my whole life. That's hilarious, actually. Being in, like, the dunks in, like, 99 when they started coming back out with the college pack and, like, you know, just following along. I lived in Boston at that time when there was this place called The Tannery, which was in, in Cambridge in Harvard Square. And the tannery is what in the back of tannery was these a couple of dudes, like this guy sponge and a couple other guys. James McLaughlin [00:26:08]: This is I think before Dion, and they had a little thing called Concepts, and it was, like, in the back of this other leather shoe store. And I don't know how much you, like, follow, like, sneaker collabs and stuff. Concepts is now a massive, brand. They have a store in definitely one in Cambridge. I think they've expanded to other stores too. But, this guy Dionne Pointe has created director over there and has done some monster collaborations, some of the probably my favorite collaborations of all time. They did the all the lobster dunks, and they've done a bunch of A6 and Balance and a bunch of really kind of super groundbreaking collaboration stuff. So, I mean, I was my roommates at the time were big skate skaters, so, you know, there was a lot of, like, La Cais and, like, iPass and all this stuff. James McLaughlin [00:27:05]: So we were just, you know, super into this into this sneaker world forever. And then I I was in Boston for a while, then I moved to Colorado and kinda was, like, in some ways, off the grid of that. You know, there was the Internet, and it was, like, Myspace times and stuff, but I kinda fell out a little bit as the sneaker world started really ramping up crazy. And then I went to Vancouver in 07, and it was, like, really, really taken off. Nike ID was just starting. But, anyway, I'm getting a little long winded on the sneakers. Reginald Ferguson [00:27:38]: I know. Everything's fine. It's kinda James McLaughlin [00:27:40]: All the all of the sneaker world has been a big part of my life for as long as I can remember, really. So, basically, when I do shows, I just I'll bring out, like, one pair that I have and kinda put them out on the rack just as kind of a vibe. I mean, I have a couple of basketballs that I put out. It's just kinda setting a vibe at my shows. You know what I mean? So and I'll endlessly have people being like, oh, what? Can I buy these sneakers? I have, like, a pair of old Jordan 1, like, Chicagos and, like, some Mokkas, Mokka ones that I'll, like, put out just as kind of a display piece. And I've always looked at the Nike IDs, but they had some Air Force Ones recently. And I just ended up doing this super fresh colorway with the 33 by hand on the back. Yeah. James McLaughlin [00:28:30]: And so for 2021 holiday, they became, like, the display shoes and, like, man, they were really good. They were good for business. They really drew a lot of people in. Reginald Ferguson [00:28:40]: It drew me in. James McLaughlin [00:28:41]: Yeah. For sure. I Reginald Ferguson [00:28:43]: probably would've gone past you. Yeah. I'm not lying. Yeah. James McLaughlin [00:28:47]: For sure. I said And it was it was good for me too because I've been kinda like at the beginning of when I was setting up shows in, like, 2017, 2018, doing shows in Boston and stuff, I was new to doing shows in general, and my products were kind of all over the place. I had all kinds of different stuff. And I would see people walking up the aisle and be like, that's my customer, guy or girl or couple or whoever. And I'd be like, I want them to stop. And at that point, almost, I feel like 8, 9 times out of 10, that particular person would kinda give a glance and just kinda walk by. I'm like, man, you I need those people to see, like, what I got here because, like, they will like it. So part of it was developing my own products, but part of it has been figuring out, okay, what can I put out? You know, the music helps a lot too. James McLaughlin [00:29:40]: You hear the music playing. You're like, okay. Okay. Okay. But, you know, part of it is, like, having some sneakers out there, having a couple of basketballs, you know, so people walk by and they catch the vibe immediately. And then they then it draws them in, then they get to check out the product, and then they see, oh, wow. This is some nice stuff. Oh, look at these different colors. James McLaughlin [00:29:59]: Oh, look at the quality. So so, yeah, that that that's where that pair of sneakers came from, really. Reginald Ferguson [00:30:08]: Hey. Have you ever found yourself looking in your closet before an important meeting, event, get together with friends, or maybe even a date and said, I don't know what to wear. I just don't have the right clothes. Well, that may or may not be true. One of the best ways to figure it out is to determine what I call your fashion foundation. I've put together a free guide so you don't find yourself looking in the mirror cursing yourself again. It's called the 10 things that every man should have in his wardrobe. To sign up, just head over to nyfashiongeek.com forward slash 10 things, number 10, to get it in your inbox today. Reginald Ferguson [00:30:49]: Yeah. I like I said, you know, kudos to you. You had the brand name there. You had your colorway, you know, that was coordinated with stuff that you had, you know, merchandise. And, yeah, like I said, no Nikes, no podcast interview, James. James McLaughlin [00:31:09]: That's hilarious. Hey. Well, that's what's up. Reginald Ferguson [00:31:12]: Yeah. No. I mean, for real. So what led you when you launched the brand? And as far as I know, you launched the brand in 2,000 18. Is that correct? So, James McLaughlin [00:31:25]: I mean, technically, I came up with the name and the logo in, like, 2015. Alright. But it was very much kind of, I was working full time at some different jobs. I ended up working at this outdoor gear company, for a good 4 years, and so I was just doing the brand kinda on the side. It was, like, nights and weekends or just whatever time I had. I started really going harder with it in about 20 end of 2017, but then I just went full time for the first time, September of 2020. So it's been just a little over a year full time. Yeah. James McLaughlin [00:32:07]: Oh, Reginald Ferguson [00:32:08]: okay. And do you wanna explain to the listeners how the SBA COVID grant program helped James McLaughlin [00:32:18]: you Oh, yeah. Reginald Ferguson [00:32:19]: The level up of the brand? James McLaughlin [00:32:20]: Yeah. I mean, you know, COVID, of course, was negative for so many reasons and still is, and, there's really no getting past that. And, you know, respect is due where with all the negative that has come out of that. However, for me, I was able to find some programs that have really helped me and helped my brand. As I said, I was working as a designer at an outdoor gear company here in Maine, which was great for my kind of learning the whole industry. As I said, I spent a long time in the in the music world, so learning how a factory runs, how products go from start to production, all this stuff. I mean, I learned so much there. I left there in September of 2020, and was just kinda like, alright. James McLaughlin [00:33:20]: Here it is. You know? This is my time to kind of try to do this. And, you know, I started looking at the programs that were going on, and there was it was called EIDL, I believe. Yep. Loans or well, there was loans and there was grants. So at first, I got a loan for, like, something like $1100, and I was like, oh, wow. This is great. And I had a friend tell me, oh, man. James McLaughlin [00:33:48]: You need to look in the grant program. So, I did a little more research on that, started figuring out what it was, and, basically, you had to show your revenue from 2018 and 2019 and show that it dropped off more than 30% over 3 weeks starting in the beginning of March. So, you know, it it it was easy for me a little bit once I got the money, you know, to feel a little bit like, well, was this just given to me? You know? Am I you know? It it's you know, you have all that guilt stuff about, like you know well, maybe that's just me, like, survivor guilt type thing coming from a small town. But, basically, I got the grant based on my income from 2018, 2019. So because I was going hard, like, every weekend, while working full time, I had these numbers to show, okay. Here's what I made every month, 2018, 2019, and then 2020, it literally went to 0. Reginald Ferguson [00:34:53]: So I James McLaughlin [00:34:53]: end up getting 14,000, in grants that and they're grants, so don't have to pay them back or anything. And that was through COVID relief for small businesses. So, you know, not only finally having made the choice to go full time, but then having that little bit of runway, it really has made the brand happen, and I'm extremely grateful for that. Reginald Ferguson [00:35:20]: Yeah. I mean, that's a blessing. James McLaughlin [00:35:23]: Yeah. Huge. Yeah. Me too. I also I also just, on Friday, was informed I applied for another 5 k grant, a small business grant here from the city of Portland and just thought on Friday that I'm gonna get that too. So, you know, these resources for small businesses are out there. You know what I mean? And it's like they're giving the money to someone. So if you work hard and you find it and you present your case well and you have a good product, I mean, there are some resources to help small businesses. James McLaughlin [00:35:59]: So I encourage anybody trying to make it happen to go go look those up and see what you can get. Reginald Ferguson [00:36:07]: Yeah. You are you are a living, breathing testament to it, so kudos. James McLaughlin [00:36:14]: Yeah. Thanks. Reginald Ferguson [00:36:15]: What made you select, Oh, you're welcome, man. What made you select doing men's accessories? Meaning, specifically, we're talking bags, wallets, top kits. How did you determine to have that niche to be your expression for the brand? James McLaughlin [00:36:35]: Well, it's it's both a little bit. To be honest, when I first started, so I had been I learned to do leather goods, with a friend of mine, and I was helping her on her brand. And so I almost, at first, was doing more, women's focused products. And I was you know, we did a few wallets here and there, but I developed a tote bag, for her brand. And so what when I first started my brand, it was tote bags. I mean, that was one of the first things I made. It's just such a such a simple thing, such a go to thing, kind of a universal product. Yep. James McLaughlin [00:37:17]: And so that was one of the first things I made. However, you know, being a man myself and being super into style and wanting to have a nice luxury wallet and a nice, you know, travel kit, it just kind of you know, the the progression was kind of natural. And I do make both now. And the other thing is that, you know, I have, like, a zipper tote bag, which that's for Reginald Ferguson [00:37:43]: I know. James McLaughlin [00:37:44]: You know what I mean? Like, that's for a man, woman, anybody that anybody that wants to carry it. And so I like I like the fact that there are products that I mean, I I feel like it's so easy for brands to be like, I'm a women's brand, I'm a men's brand, and I like to not only have both, but have some products that are kind of this is for anybody. You know what I mean? Like, there's no lines here. There's no boundaries. It's like, we live in a world where we hopefully are letting go of some of those kind of limiting norms. So, but that's what I do love doing, you know, really nice men's goods as well. And I think there's a place for all of that stuff. So it's been a it's been a bit of an evolution. Reginald Ferguson [00:38:30]: I obviously, in my research, looked at every item that you have. So more so than I did when I was at the show because I was really just rapping with you. James McLaughlin [00:38:44]: Yeah. Reginald Ferguson [00:38:45]: Dude, let's talk about the, I believe it's called the, 11 tote. James McLaughlin [00:38:52]: Yes. So the 11 tote. Reginald Ferguson [00:38:54]: Looks beautiful, and you're going, yeah, this is the off sales leather. Well, I mean, I'm just a consumer. So James McLaughlin [00:39:03]: The the stuff they the stuff they put out up there is world class. You know what I mean? It's it's the highest quality you can get. It's not Italian leather, which carries some cache in the name, but, you know, it's it's of the highest quality, and there's plenty of different finishes and you know? So I'm happy to to use the leather from Tasman and Acadia. The 11 tote is an evolution of that first tote that I made. So the original tote I made obviously was a was with a different brand, so I've kinda evolved, a little bit. And oh, again, when I first started, you know, with that other brand and and with my with my own stuff at the beginning after kind of doing my own my own brand, I was doing all hand stitched goods. So Oh. Punching all the holes, sitting down, saddle stitching, which is quite an art. James McLaughlin [00:40:02]: You know what I mean? And there's there's definitely a market for those goods, but it it takes so long. And the price you have to then charge is is tough. And when I went to work at outdoor gear company here in in Maine, you know, we were on machines all day. It was all it's all machines. So I really got more and more comfortable with machines and, you know, buy myself a heavy duty walking foot leather machine. So my first tote was called the 33 tote, which I used to have on the website, and I was hand stitched. So the 11 tote is a bit of the progression of that, and I call it the 11 because it's kind of like it's not hand stitched. So it's not the same, you know, it's you're just never gonna get the same quality as hand stitched on a machine because the stitch is different. James McLaughlin [00:40:54]: But, essentially, you don't you don't need to go that far to have something that'll last you a lifetime. So the 11 tote is the kind of the basis of 33 products, in the new kind of manufacturing realm that I that I went with. Reginald Ferguson [00:41:11]: James, I'm not blowing the smoke. Oh, I'm sorry. Go ahead. James McLaughlin [00:41:14]: Oh, no. No. No. All good. Just just gonna say, like, it's super simple, elegant, durable. You know? Reginald Ferguson [00:41:21]: Well, you know, when you talk about durability, I figure that just comes from not just your own sensibilities, but from your origins, meaning, hey, you're from Maine. Yep. In which, you know, and I know if you go to Freeport and you go to Beaners, because clearly I've been, if you have something that's busted out, you go to Beaners, and they will take care of you because it's so rare for anything to be busted out. And I do remember a few years ago, and I'm sure you remember this too, people were kinda trying to run game on Biners, you know, with products like, oh, this is busted. Like, what? Yeah. So I wanna talk about and I'm sorry for overstepping, at the end of your sentence there. James McLaughlin [00:42:08]: No. You're good. Reginald Ferguson [00:42:09]: I wanna talk about the inside pocket of that 11 tote. What led you to do that? I wanna make this clear to the listeners. Ladies and gentlemen, the inside pocket of the 11 tote that we're talking about, it looks like a miniature brief. The craftsmanship looks crazy. I am a bad guy. I love bags because bags have pockets. What led you to create a pocket like that? Because I personally, I'm really in the bags. I've never seen a pocket like that. James McLaughlin [00:42:48]: I mean, you know, it's, I I really love using the kind of post and ball closure. Some people will call it collar button. I think a collar button is technically something a little different, but, I just love that closure. So that's that's how I started making that inside pocket like that. I have, however, on some of the newer 11s, I've started making it without that closure and just kind of a super simple, I know, just a super simple pocket that's just open. However, I use, like, a contrasting color, whether it's a green or, like, a yellow or something. But, you know, when somebody orders online, I will make that that full pocket. That so the round shape that you see there, that is that design came from the traveler bag that I make, which is a more women's, but, you know, suitable for anyone, cross body bag, and the front closure is that same circle, design closure. James McLaughlin [00:44:01]: So it's it's kind of a it's a nod to that design inside the tote. Reginald Ferguson [00:44:10]: It's, it's pretty special. James McLaughlin [00:44:12]: Thanks. Yeah. I'm glad you like it. Reginald Ferguson [00:44:14]: Yeah. For real. I just I just said to myself, I would feel so comfortable putting anything in that inside pocket because of the closure. Yeah. Yeah. But, yeah, I just you know, I think a lot of brands do inside pockets, and I'm not saying they don't have care, concern, or intention, but I just thought yours was over. James McLaughlin [00:44:37]: Oh, thanks. Yeah. I'm glad I'm glad you that you like that detail. I mean, you know, with making something so simple with any kind of product, you know, then the when when it is such a simple item, then the focus comes down to those details, and that's always been a big thing for me. You know, my mom was always big on, like, you know, having a jacket with, like, a cool just like the lining is, like, a different fabric. You know what I mean? Or, like, you know, my dad having a shirt with, like you know, you roll up the sleeve and, like, under the cuff is, like, a different fabric. And, like, just those little details have always been so important and kind of exciting to me in any kind of style. Reginald Ferguson [00:45:24]: I like how you have, like, color contrast, and you have a you have another bag. It's the bayside traveler zip tote, I believe. Mhmm. And just seeing that paint splatter and that and then as a consumer, having an option about what color he wants your splatter. James McLaughlin [00:45:45]: Mhmm. Reginald Ferguson [00:45:47]: I like that. I think it's, you know, it's a little bit irreverent. James McLaughlin [00:45:54]: But Yeah. That's it. Reginald Ferguson [00:45:56]: Yeah. But it's it's cool. It's cool. Yeah. James McLaughlin [00:45:59]: It's it's fun to me to have, you know, such a such a high quality piece and then also have it, you know, not be just perfect and, you know, plain. You know what I'm saying? So, like, taking that you know? Because it it's it's a process to make that coated canvas, and then it's all pristine, and then you just throw some color on there. And so it just makes it stand out. Reginald Ferguson [00:46:27]: Yeah. And outside of the Nikes, that bag, yeah, that bag popped for me because I just I just like that. Just said, oh, okay. That's it's nice. It's different. It's yeah. It's fun. James McLaughlin [00:46:42]: It's been fun finding the balance of the with the paint splatter. For a while, I was when I first started doing it, I I was just putting it everywhere on everything. And so it got a little much. And that was when I was doing the shows in Boston and stuff. And I think for people coming up to my booth, it would be a little bit like just a little butch, and people would be like, oh, okay. Alright. I'll I'll come check out this another time. You know? So it's been fun finding that balance. James McLaughlin [00:47:10]: I've been doing a lot of, like, paint now on the inside of things, so you get a nice beautiful, kinda clean look on the outside, and then you open it up, and there's a cool kinda detail on the inside. Reginald Ferguson [00:47:22]: Yeah. I like that. James McLaughlin [00:47:23]: But the balance is good. Reginald Ferguson [00:47:25]: Yeah. Yeah. Well, like you said, you're you're finding your way. Right? I mean, that's what we're all doing for our individual businesses With more time, there's more experimentation and maturation and James McLaughlin [00:47:38]: Absolutely. And, you know, the brand has an opportunity to kinda develop on its Reginald Ferguson [00:47:42]: own. Right. So you were showing me because of your love of sneakers, and I consider myself sneaker enthusiast. I don't know if I'm a sneaker head because I only have, you know, 10, 12 pair because I'm usually suited and booted. Right? So James McLaughlin [00:48:00]: That's a sad deal. Reginald Ferguson [00:48:02]: No. That's it. That's the end. There's no more. And I just got actually, I'm gonna hit you I'm gonna hit you with this. You know, you're talking about Nike ID, but I actually took it a step further, and that's gonna be an episode for you and anyone who's willing to listen, eventually. I actually got a pair of Converse classic 1 stars done by a sneaker artist. James McLaughlin [00:48:27]: Oh, yeah. And you were telling me about that at the show. Reginald Ferguson [00:48:30]: Yes. Oh, that's right. I was. Yeah. Well, I got them. Haven't rocked them yet. And, actually, I still need to have, like, 1 or 2 conversations with, Kira Maidens, KMT, so we could try Alright. James McLaughlin [00:48:43]: I gotta look her up. I I have forgotten that name. Reginald Ferguson [00:48:46]: Yeah. And I'll I'll hit you I'll hit you up with it. James McLaughlin [00:48:49]: Yeah. Yeah. Send me some pics. Reginald Ferguson [00:48:50]: Yeah. Later today. Yeah. I'll send you some pics. James McLaughlin [00:48:52]: I remember you were waiting for them to come in at the show. Reginald Ferguson [00:48:55]: Correct. Well, I got them. James McLaughlin [00:48:58]: Nice. I mean, you know, you had some what did you have? You had some some little fly air force ones at the show too? Reginald Ferguson [00:49:04]: Of course. We're gonna fly. I know who I am. James McLaughlin [00:49:08]: Right. Right. Reginald Ferguson [00:49:09]: But but listen, dude, I think you saw it. Like, I can't tell you outside of Jordan 1 to maybe 3, you've lost me. Like, I can't quote a number like you. And that's a wonderful segue because you have these card carrier wallets, the Fairview, I believe. Yeah. And you did you did a homage because you hit me with you like, yo. Because what I did and then the Namars. Okay. Reginald Ferguson [00:49:38]: Okay. I know. I know who Namar is. Alright. I got that down. Break that down for us. James McLaughlin [00:49:45]: Are you talking about the the dock kit that I did? Reginald Ferguson [00:49:48]: Was it the dock kit or was it a car? Or maybe I'm getting confused. I didn't realize you had done it on the dock kit. James McLaughlin [00:49:53]: The name r one was a dock kit, and I didn't have that out there. That was a custom for a friend of mine, Chris at North Optical up here in Maine, which is a great glasses shop, and I've done some, we have a collab with some glasses cases that are really nice that he has in the store. Oh, wow. So he ordered for his brother-in-law who, like, I guess, really loves these. It's a Jordan 5 low Neymar version. And, I don't know if you're familiar with 3 m. 3 m is like the reflective kind of material. Reginald Ferguson [00:50:28]: Yeah. Yeah. Sure. James McLaughlin [00:50:29]: Usually, it's gray. Right? So, the Neymar Jordan 5 low is the the full the whole shoe is 3 m, so the whole thing is reflective. So I did a dock kit in basically, in the style of that shoe. And I still haven't even posted those pictures, man. I'm sometimes so bad at, like, posting. But, yeah, that was a fun one. I mean, it took a long time, and I I if I was doing more of those customs, I would have to charge a lot more. But that was a fun one. James McLaughlin [00:50:58]: But I I have done a bunch of wallets, so I did, like, a little Jordan 5 wallet Yeah. With, like, the kind of, like if you know the pattern of a Jordan 5 little soul, it's kind of this, like I can't remember what it was inspired by. I think it was like a fighter. Reginald Ferguson [00:51:13]: Yeah. It's yeah. I call it, like, the teeth. Yeah. James McLaughlin [00:51:16]: It's the teeth. Yeah. So I did some wallets like that with that on the side. I also have some basketball materials, so I, you know, do that. And, I've always been a huge Jordan 6 fan, which is the infrared color, which infrared has been used on a lot of others other Nikes as well. It's it's basically similar to that classic Air Max 90, the black, white, and, like, infrared. Reginald Ferguson [00:51:39]: I'm not James McLaughlin [00:51:39]: sure if they call it infrared on that one, but but I'm getting a little in the weeds with the sneakers. No. That's me. So, yeah, that that color, features a lot on a lot of my products. One of the big, Kennebec Weekender bags I had out at that show was, it's basically black with infrared with some kinda, like, light splatter, which is very Jordan vibe. So definitely Jordan Jordan vibes carry through a lot of my products pretty sometimes light, sometimes a little heavier. They're just they're just they're Reginald Ferguson [00:52:15]: just it's just so On the site. James McLaughlin [00:52:17]: They're so recognizable. You know what I mean? And to somebody that gets it, it just it's a it's a vibe. Reginald Ferguson [00:52:24]: Yeah. No. Absolutely. And like I said, I mean, you having those kicks out there, you know, drew me. And I believe on the website, ladies and gentlemen, when you look at the Kennebec Weekender that James is referencing, it's a duffel. And he has a leather and a canvas. He has a outside pocket. He has a inside pocket, not like the other one. Reginald Ferguson [00:52:45]: But if I recall, you had some Jordans in the bag. James McLaughlin [00:52:50]: Oh, on the in the photos. Yeah. Reginald Ferguson [00:52:52]: Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Like, if you're ready to hoop in style. Yeah. You know. Rock this Kennebec Weekender. James McLaughlin [00:53:00]: You gotta know if some sneakers can fit in there. You know? Although, if you're who James Jordan Reginald Ferguson [00:53:09]: Washington is sending you well. Well, again, you know, once you start going deeper than, you know, Chicago ones, then I get I just get blurry. I'm like, okay. Right. I think. I have no idea. I like to ask this of my guests. You are a guest, and I hope you come back because you have a lot going on. James McLaughlin [00:53:39]: Thanks, man. It's a pleasure to be here. Reginald Ferguson [00:53:40]: Why is fashion important? No. I worked hard to get you, James. You know that. That was delicious. James McLaughlin [00:53:50]: You know, fashion is important to me well, to me, but I think in general, and this is part of the my brand story. The brand is called 33 by Hand. Part of it came because I was 33 at the time of kind of conception of this brand. So that was the start of it. 33 was a jersey number for me as a kid as well. Ewing. I'm Reginald Ferguson [00:54:14]: a Knicks fan. James McLaughlin [00:54:15]: There you go. There you go. I mean, it was tipping for me. So but and, you know, we all love Jordan, but there would be no Jordan without tipping, so we gotta always remember that. Yep. But, you know, so it's 33, but it's by hand. And, again, that started because I was I was doing all hand stitching at the beginning. However, it's evolved to, you know, style and fashion, they aren't absolute necessities of life. James McLaughlin [00:54:42]: However, they are ways in which we express ourselves to the world. You know what I mean? And so 33 by hand, it's it's come to represent, you know, you make your own style on your own, you know, by hand. And everything that goes into your own personal style is everything that's been part of your life. And that's the same way with this brand. Everything that I make, every color that I choose, every pattern, it's all drawing off my life experience, whether it's in the music industry or in the snow sports world or in the outdoor gear world, or DJing or anything like that, being obsessed with high end fashion. So to me, it's important because it's just how you express yourself. It's how you have fun. It's how you show your own life experiences to others and kind of attract like minded people and have those fun conversations just like we're having right now. James McLaughlin [00:55:40]: I mean, you caught it from the sneakers, and so here we are having a conversation. And, I mean, it brings people together, and it makes that community and, you know, that all of those things to me are very important, and that's that's kind of a lot of the ethos of my brand and basically how I live my life in general. So it's a good question. Reginald Ferguson [00:56:00]: Thank you. I got some others. What difference and you've kind of hinted at it already. What difference has fashion made in your life? James McLaughlin [00:56:09]: Oh, man. I mean, a huge difference. I mean, everything from, you know, having those sneakers as a kid and, you know, wanting to get, like, matching sweat suits out of East Bay and, you know, coming to school and, like, being like, oh, man. Look what he got. Oh, look what I got. You know? Like, noticing, you know, girls and sneakers and as you're growing up. I mean, it's like it is it's been a big part of my life, basically, all of my life. And, I'm so happy that I can kind of make it now not only something that I do in my off time, but something that, is really my livelihood and basically everything I do all the time. James McLaughlin [00:56:58]: So it's made a huge difference in my life. It's brought me together with so many different people, across the world, really. I mean, again, here we are having this conversation. So, it I think it's for for somebody that, can really, like, vibe with it, I think it's it can be such an important important thing. Reginald Ferguson [00:57:21]: What's the top fashion tip you would give the everyday man so he could look his best? James McLaughlin [00:57:27]: Oh, man. I mean, I think really just just do what you want. You know what I mean? Just don't let you know, it's fun to see inspirations, from different places. But, you know, if if you're if you're in a, you know, thrift store or some you know, wherever you are looking at stuff, like and you're vibing on something, don't I would say think less about, like, how is somebody else gonna feel about this versus, like, how are you gonna feel when you put it on? Because that that's really it to me. You know what I mean? And, like, don't hold Reginald Ferguson [00:58:07]: back. Yeah. I would agree. So what does always be fly mean to you? James McLaughlin [00:58:16]: Well, to me, I mean, that goes, you know, it's, of course, a style thing, but that's also I feel like it it's even deeper than that a little than that a little bit because, you know, if you are if you're looking fly, you're looking good, but if you kinda, like if you can also vibe off that in more more of your life than just fashion, I think it can take you a long way. You know what I mean? If you feel good, if you look and fly, you act and fly, and you're gonna attract people that have good energy, and you're gonna, you know, be better to people because you're feeling good. So, I mean, I think it can go a long way. Reginald Ferguson [00:58:58]: If you think about it, that's kinda what brought us together. James McLaughlin [00:59:01]: Absolutely. Yeah. It really is. Reginald Ferguson [00:59:06]: Try launching a business during COVID. That's a courageous act. Big props to James for not only doing it but having the SBA, the Small Business Association, help him get to the next level and realize his vision. I love his bags and I love the Dopp kit. That's banging. I wish I could afford them. Check out James McLaughlin's work at 33byhand.com. Well, that's a wrap. Reginald Ferguson [00:59:39]: Thank you so much for listening. We hope you had fun and are down for another one. Please tell a friend who could use some fashion help about the podcast or share an episode with them directly. If you enjoy the show, please give us a rating and review on Apple Podcast. Lastly, if you constantly struggle putting an outfit together and are looking to turn that confusion into confidence, I'd love to talk about how we can improve with it. Check me out at nyfashinguic.com and email me at reg@nyfashiongroup.com for a consultation. A special shout goes for our producer, Serge, and everyone down with the Fashion Geek podcast. If you have a story suggestion, you can email me at podcast@nyfashiongeek dotcom, or hit me up on the insta@newyorkfashiongeek. Reginald Ferguson [01:00:30]: And remember, always be fly.